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New stab and flame-resistant fabric

A unique new stab and flame-resistant material has been made using wool and a special synthetic fibre. It looks and feels like regular wool jacket fabric and is lightweight and comfortable to wear.

Clothes dummy wearing AgResearch’s prototype stab-resistant vest

AgResearch’s prototype stab-resistant vest

AgResearch’s prototype vest made from their new stab and flame-resistant fabric, which looks and feels like normal jacket fabric.

Rights: © AgResearch

The fabric is made from a core structure of knitted Vectran™ yarns with short wool fibres packed into the knitted structure. Developed at AgResearch in Christchurch, this fabric opens up new opportunities for protective clothing where traditional stab and flame-proof fabrics would be unsuitable.

Fibre combination provides dual protection

The wool and Vectran™ fibres work together to give a better level of protection than you would get from either fibre alone.

Vectran™ is a very high-strength fibre, spun from a special type of polyester. It has excellent cut and impact resistance, which means it can withstand the force of a sharp object. It also remains stable at high and low temperatures, so it won’t burn. Other uses for Vectran™ fibre include cut-resistant gloves for the meat industry, aircraft cables and astronaut safety tethers.

Wool is also flame retardant. When exposed to a flame, it chars, forming a layer of carbon. The charred layer is held together by the Vectran™ structure creating a protective barrier that reduces heat transfer through the fabric, so the fabric doesn’t burn and also doesn’t get too hot and burn the skin on the other side.

Wool adds comfort and wearability

There are other stab and flame-resistant fabrics made from synthetic yarns, such as Kevlar and Nomex, that provide a similar level of protection. The idea of incorporating wool into the fabric is what makes it different. It looks like a normal wool jacket fabric and is comfortable to wear all the time.

The properties of wool make the fabric more comfortable because it’s breathable and absorbent. It’s also soft and springy to touch.

Wool fibre structure and properties

This interactive shows the cellular structure of wool fibre and how this relates to its properties.

Rights: University of Waikato

Knitted structure adds flexibility

The other factor that makes the fabric different and adds to its comfort is that the Vectran™ framework of the fabric is knitted. This is more flexible than a woven structure, so it doesn’t restrict movement.

New market opportunities

The new fabric doesn’t provide the same level of protection as conventional protective fabric and is not designed to replace it. The higher level of comfort and usability it offers provides opportunity for protection in situations where a person may otherwise wear no protection.

Advantages of new stab and flame-resistant fabric

The advantage of the new stab and flame-resistant fabric developed at AgResearch is that it looks and feels like a conventional fabric so it’s more comfortable to wear. Senior Scientist  Dr Stewart Collie  explains the advantages.

Select  here  for transcript and question to consider.

Rights: The University of Waikato Te Whare Wānanga o Waikato

It’s comfortable enough to wear all the time so is ideal for situations where there’s a more moderate level of risk such as ambulance officers, bouncers and security guards. It could also be used where there’s risk of an accidental cut or injury in occupations such as forestry or metalworking and in recreational activities such as mountain biking or hunting.

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Making the fabric

  • Wool preparation: Wool fibre undergoes a number of processes before it is ready for making into fabric. This preparation produces a of wool fibres.

  • Fabric construction: The Vectran™ yarn and wool sliver are fed into a special machine called a Fibreknit machine. This machine knits the Vectran™ yarn and locks in the wool fibres at the same time.

  • Fabric finishing: Special finishing processes strengthen the fabric and help lock in the wool fibres.

Making stab and flame-resistant fabric

New stab and flame-resistant fabric is made on a special type of machine. Dr Stewart Collie , Senior Scientist at AgResearch, explains how the machine creates the unique fabric structure.

Select  here  for transcript.

Rights: The University of Waikato Te Whare Wānanga o Waikato

Making stab and flame-resistant fabric

New stab and flame-resistant fabric is made on a special type of machine. Dr Stewart Collie , Senior Scientist at AgResearch, explains how the machine creates the unique fabric structure.

Select  here  for transcript.

Rights: The University of Waikato Te Whare Wānanga o Waikato

Challenges working with high-strength yarn

During the knitting process, a yarn undergoes a lot of causing stretching. Very high-strength yarns like Vectran™ don’t stretch. This creates a lot of pressure and can cause parts of the machine to break.

Challenges making stab resistant garments

AgResearch’s new stab-resistant fabric combines wool fibre with a synthetic yarn that’s very difficult to cut. Senior Scientist  Dr Stewart Collie  explains why this presents a challenge for constructing garments.

Select here for transcript and question to consider.

Rights: The University of Waikato Te Whare Wānanga o Waikato

This affects how fast you can produce the fabric because, as the speed of production increases, the forces acting on the yarn increase. As a result, you have to start slowly, build up speed gradually and stop when problems occur.

A cut-resistant fabric also presents some issues for cutting out and manufacturing garments.

Related content

This article is a handy curation of our resources looking at some of the innovative wool textiles being developed at AgResearch.

Useful link

An introduction to Vectran™ fibre and its properties.

Published: 27 May 2010,Updated: 27 May 2010